Friday, February 28, 2014
Saturday, February 22, 2014
Thursday, February 20, 2014
Bloody Roar 2 Game
Bloody Roar 2 Game!
File Size:20.55 MB
File Size:20.55 MB
System Requirements!
- Cpu: 700 Mhz
- Ram: 256 Mb
- Video Memory: 32 Mb
- Windows Xp,7,Vista
Road Rash 2002 Game
Road Rash 2002 Game!
File Size:21.27 Mb
File Size:21.27 Mb
System Requirements!
- Ram: 16 Mb
- Hard: 25 Mb
- Cpu:75 Mhz
- Windows Xp,Vista
Rally Trophy Game
Rally Trophy Game
File Size:543.3 MB
System Requirements!
- Windows Xp,7,Vista,8
- Ram: 128 MB
- Video Memory: 32 MB
- Cpu: Intel Pentium III @ 650 MHz
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
C2-01 Nokia Keypad Not Working IC Jumper Ways Filter Problem Solution
This is Nokia C2-01 solution for not working keypads problem. This solution shows the connection line paths of the C2-01 keypad matrix including the EMI filter IC jumper ways. This may help for easy troubleshooting a keypad failure on the phone.
Just refer to the solution below and analyze how each certain keypad keys being connected. This solution may also help in bypassing the keypad EMI filter IC.
Hints on Nokia C2-01 Keypad Malfunction Repairs:
1. Clean the keypad matrix including the keypad membrane.
2. Trace the connection line paths of a certain keys that doesn't work.
3. Check/replace the Keypads EMI filter IC or you can bypass it by applying a jumper wire on the open test point or spots as shown on the picture above. It will work too.
Just refer to the solution below and analyze how each certain keypad keys being connected. This solution may also help in bypassing the keypad EMI filter IC.
Nokia C2-01 Keypad Problem Repair Solution
1. Clean the keypad matrix including the keypad membrane.
2. Trace the connection line paths of a certain keys that doesn't work.
3. Check/replace the Keypads EMI filter IC or you can bypass it by applying a jumper wire on the open test point or spots as shown on the picture above. It will work too.
Sunday, February 16, 2014
The Truth about iPhone 4 Screen Replacement
So, you broke your
But here's the deal, there's a lot of confusion about repair - some important information is being left out of the conversation and we're here to set you straight about what you need to know to get your iPhone 4 back up and running, with a new shiny screen for those late night FaceTime sessions you've come to love so much.
First, let's toss out some definitions for your edification:
1. Digitizer - AKA Touch-Screen (exhibit A): This is the part of your iPhone you lovingly stroke anytime to want to use it. Your finger knows the silky feel of this glass covered wonder very well. Basically, this is the top glass of your iPhone 4.
2. LCD: This is the Liquid Crystal Display (exhibit B) that shows all those pretty pictures that you're used to looking at. The LCD is located directly under the Digitizer.
What usually happens when you slam your iPhone 4 to the ground (we know you didn't do this, but, it happens) is that the glass Digitizer shatters. Your phone may still work, but it's like driving with a crack in your windshield - things are going to get worse, not better. Now that we've defined those two parts, here's where things get tricky.
On the original iPhone, both the LCD screen and the Digitizer were fused together during the manufacturing process. When the next generation iPhone was released (the 3G), Apple, in its infinite wisdom, decided to separate the LCD screen from the Digitizer. This was great, because it allowed you to just replace the Digitizer when you went crazy and threw your phone through the wall, finally fed up with your AT&T reception problems. Oh, we know this didn't happen to you...but. Same thing with the LCD - the repair was less expensive, since you could just remove and replace that part alone. The separate screen design was the same for the iPhone 3GS model - life was good.
The iPhone 4 exploded on the scene in June of 2010 and take apart videos began appearing within about 3 seconds of the first person leaving the Apple store. And then, the world stood still as we all realized that Apple had gone "back to the future" and the iPhone 4 screen, that fabulous "Retina Display" LCD and that super slick Digitizer were once again, fused together for eternity.
So, what does this mean and why should you care? Well, confusion reigns in the marketplace and you'll find all kinds of folks from small towns in Asia selling you an iPhone 4 digitizer all by itself, or an iPhone 4 LCD all by itself. And since you are reading this article and are now educated on this subject - you know that these separate parts are (read this part out-loud) : COMPLETELY WORTHLESS. Yes friends, somewhere across this wonderful land of ours, an excitediPhone 4 user is opening up a cheap LCD or digitizer they bought on eBay and they are still thinking that they got a smoking good deal and are just beginning to try and repair their iPhone 4 screen. They only have a few more minutes of glory before they realize that they have been tricked, scammed, flamboozled, if you will. The part they bought is...yes, COMPLETELY WORTHLESS. There is no way for an end-user to remove the LCD from the Digitizer on the iPhone 4. You need, what is referred to as a "" that contains the LCD screen + Digitizer + Frame.
Yes, this means that your iPhone 4 screen replacement is going to cost a little more than the iPhone 3G or 3GS - but, think about how much money you just saved yourself by not buying either the LCD or Digitizer by themselves, since we know that they are... yes, we won't remind you of their value since you are now a fully educated iPhone 4 consumer
Saturday, February 15, 2014
nokia x2-00 lcd ways
nokia x2-00 lcd ways
x2 00 lcd ways
problem lcd x200
nokia x2-00 lcd display
Nokia x2-00 lcd white problam
nokia x200 display
nokia x2 00 dichplay ways
nokia x2-00 display light
nokia x2-00 display faulty
x200 full display ways
x200 lcd ways
In above diagram red line is given to identify the LCD filter IC location. These two LCD IC are used in Display function of Nokia X2-00. Keep in mind if there is some rust or carbon and water damages make it clean with electronics clean and then apply hot air to make it dry.
x2 00 lcd ways
problem lcd x200
nokia x2-00 lcd display
Nokia x2-00 lcd white problam
nokia x200 display
nokia x2 00 dichplay ways
nokia x2-00 display light
nokia x2-00 display faulty
x200 full display ways
x200 lcd ways
In above diagram red line is given to identify the LCD filter IC location. These two LCD IC are used in Display function of Nokia X2-00. Keep in mind if there is some rust or carbon and water damages make it clean with electronics clean and then apply hot air to make it dry.
How to Check Spare Parts of a Mobile Phone for Fault
When doing mobile phone repairing, you will often need to check parts such as speaker, ringer, vibrator, coil, boost coin, On / Off Switch,Antenna Switch, RX Filter, PFO, BSI, Network IC, VCO, Audio IC, Power IC, RTC, Charging IC, CPU, R22, Microphone Interface, Bluetooth IC, Flash IC, RAM, Logic IC, UEM etc.
In most cases, only card level parts of a mobile cell phone are checked for fault and then repaired or replaced with a new one. Card level parts of a mobile cell phone include ringer, speaker, microphone, vibrator, LED, charging connector, headphone connector, datacable connector, battery, battery connector, SIM card, SIM card connector, memory card, memory card connector, camera, camera connector, keypad button, keypad connector, ON / OFF Switch, Display, Display connector, Internal antenna and PDA.
Chip level small parts of a mobile phone that include small electronics components like capacitors, resistor, diode, coil, boost coil, coupler, regulator, transistors, are rarely or not tested for fault. In case there is any fault in the track of the Mobile Phone PCB then it is solved or fixed by jumper.
Mobile Phone Tools and Equipment Needed to Check Parts of a Mobile Phone for Fault are:
If the Ampere Needle fluctuates below 2 ten there could be problem with software or RTC (Real Time Clock).
If the Ampere needle stands at some fixed point then there is problem with the Flash IC.
If there is beep sound from the DC Power Supply then there is problem with “+” and “-” or the mobile handset is short.
PS: When checking a faulty mobile phone with DC Power supply, connect the Red Probe to “+” and Black Probe to “-” of the Battery Connector of the Mobile Phone.
In most cases, only card level parts of a mobile cell phone are checked for fault and then repaired or replaced with a new one. Card level parts of a mobile cell phone include ringer, speaker, microphone, vibrator, LED, charging connector, headphone connector, datacable connector, battery, battery connector, SIM card, SIM card connector, memory card, memory card connector, camera, camera connector, keypad button, keypad connector, ON / OFF Switch, Display, Display connector, Internal antenna and PDA.
Chip level small parts of a mobile phone that include small electronics components like capacitors, resistor, diode, coil, boost coil, coupler, regulator, transistors, are rarely or not tested for fault. In case there is any fault in the track of the Mobile Phone PCB then it is solved or fixed by jumper.
Mobile Phone Tools and Equipment Needed to Check Parts of a Mobile Phone for Fault are:
- Multimeter
- DC power supply
How to Check Parts of a Mobile Phone for Fault
- Ringer: To check if the ringer of a mobile phone is faulty or damaged, Multimeter forMobile Phone Repairing Multimeter for Mobile Phone Repairing keep the multimeter in buzzer mode and check the ringer. Value must be between 8 to 10 Ohms. If the value is between this range then the ringer is good and does not need replacement. If the value on multimeter is 4-5 or 12-14 then change the ringer.
- Vibrator or Motor: Keep the multimeter in Buzzer Mode and check the vibrator, Value must be 8 to 16 Ohms. If the value is between 8-16 Ohms then the vibrator is good. Otherwise change it.
- Speaker or Earpiece: Check the speaker / earpiece with a multimeter on Buzzer mode. Value must be in the range of 25 to 35 Ohms. If the value is in this range then the speaker / earpiece is OK and need not be changed. Otherwise, change the speaker / earpiece.
- Microphone or Mic: Keep the multimeter in buzzer mode and check the microphone. Value reading on the multimeter must be in the range of 600 to 1800 Ohms. There will also be a Beep or Buzz sound from the multimeter. NOTE: Please note that only one side of the microphone will show value. If we check by reversing the Red and Black Probes / Test Leads of the multimeter and check the microphone then there will be no value.
- Coil: Check it with a multimeter on Buzzer Mode. If it is good then it the multimeter will give a Beep or Buzz sound. If there is no sound then the coil is faulty. Replace it with a new one.
- Resistor or Resistance: Check it with a multimeter on Buzzer Mode. If it is good then the multimeter will give a Beep or Buzz sound. If there is no sound then the resistor is faulty. Replace it with a new one.
- Capacitor: Check it with a multimeter on Buzzer Mode. If it is good then the multimeter will NOT give any Beep or Buzz sound. If there is sound then the capacitor is faulty. Replace it with a new one.
- Diode: Check it with a multimeter on Buzzer Mode. If it is good then the multimeter will NOT give any Beep or Buzz sound. If there is sound then the diode is faulty. Replace it with a new one.
- LED: Keep the multimeter in Buzzer mode and check the LED. If the LED is good then they will glow otherwise not.
- Coil and Boosting Coil: Check for continuity. If there is continuity then the coil or the Boost Coil is good otherwise it is faulty.
- Keypad: Keep the multimeter on Buzzer mode and check Rows and Columns or the Key Pad. If there is Beep or Buzz sound from the multimeter then Keypad is ok, otherwise it is faulty
- .Battery Connector: Keep multimeter on 20V DC and check. Value must be 1.5 to 3.5 V DC.
- Battery: Check voltage with a multimeter. Keep multimeter on 20V DC and check. Value must be 3.7 V DC or above.
- ON / OFF Switch: Check voltage with a multimeter. Keep multimeter on 20V DC and check. Value must be between 2.5 to 3.7 V DC.
- Network IC: Use a Analog DC Power Supply to check Network IC. Switch ON DC Power Supply and call any number from your mobile phone. The Needle of the DC Ampere will start moving. This shows that the Network IC is OK and not fault.
- Power IC and CPU: Adjust voltage of the DC Power Supply to 4.2. Place the Red Probe / Test Lead of the DC Power Power Supply to the “+” of the Battery Connector of the mobile phone and the Black Probe / Test Lead to “-”. If DC Ampere is over 6 then Power IC or CPU is damaged. Check by replacing Power IC and the CPU one by one.
If the Ampere Needle fluctuates below 2 ten there could be problem with software or RTC (Real Time Clock).
If the Ampere needle stands at some fixed point then there is problem with the Flash IC.
If there is beep sound from the DC Power Supply then there is problem with “+” and “-” or the mobile handset is short.
PS: When checking a faulty mobile phone with DC Power supply, connect the Red Probe to “+” and Black Probe to “-” of the Battery Connector of the Mobile Phone.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)